Shaping uppers over lasts



1940- J. T. LANCASTER 2,222,212

SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Flled June 17, l939 l0 Sheets-Sheet 1 I I An Nov. 19, 1940.

J. T. LANCASTER SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed June 17, 1939 10 Sheets-Sheet? E W M W Nov. 19, 1940. J. T. LANCASTER SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed June 1'7, 1939 10 Sheets-Sheet 3 1940 J. T. LANCASTER SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed Jur me 17, 1959 10 Sheets-Sheet 4 NOV. 19, 1940. J, LANCASTER 2,222,212

I SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS l0 Sheets-Sheet 5 lg. 5'70 55 Z62;

Filed June 17, 1939 Nov. 19, 1940.

J. T. LANCASTER SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed June 17, 1939 10 Sheets-Sheet 6 402 0 3 44mm. Tim

Nov. 19, 1940.

J. T. LANCASTER SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed June l7, 1939 10 Sheets-Sheet 7 Nov. 19, 1940.

J. T. LANCASTER 2,222,212

SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed June 17, 1939 10 Sheets-Sheet a' flvmvma Maw,

J. T. LANCASTER SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Nov. 19; 1940.

Filed Jur'le 1'7, 1939 1G Sheets-Sheet 9 Nov. 19, 1940.

J. T. LANCASTER ,22 ,212 SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed June 17, 1939 10 Sheets-Sheet 10 MAC/f/A/f STOPS Patented Nov. 19, 1940 UNITED STAT OFFICE SHAPING UPPERS UVER LAS'ES Jersey Application June 1'7, 1339, Serial lilo. 279,705

ll! Claims.

This invention relates to methods and means for use in shaping uppers over lasts and is herein illustrated by reference to the shaping over a last of a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last preparatory to lasting its toe end, although it is to be understood that in some aspects the invention is not thus limited in its applicability.

The invention in one aspect provides a novel upper shaping method whereby the iorepart of a two-part upper is subjected to heightwise strain by a pull applied at the opposite sides of its waist portion and to'lengthwise strain by a pull applied at the margin of its toe end and the margins of the upper at the opposite sides of the waist portion are fastened to an insole on the last while the upper is held under lengthwise strain, the margin of the toe end or" the upper being thereafter released in an unfastened condition. In accordance with the practice herein disclosed, the upper is tensioned lengthwise of the last after the beginning of the pull applied to its opposite side margins to tension it over the waist portion of the last, and while it is held under lengthwise strain it is conformed to the contour of the waist portion of the last and its marginal portions at the opposite sides of the ball of the last and rearwardly toward the shank are laid inwardly over the insole and fastened adhesively to the insole, although it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the fastening of the upper in this particular manner. Preferably, as illustrated, the upper is tensioned heightwise of the last by pulling it in a direction substantially normal to that portion of the bottom face of the last that curves upwardly from the ball toward the shank. The forepart of the two-part upper is thus effectively held against any forward displacement from adjusted position on the last while it is tensioned lengthwise of the last to shape it properly for permanent attachment to the insole, thus insuring against any objectionable distortion of the upper.

The invention further provides a machine adapted for use in the practice of the abovedescribed method. As herein illustrated, the machine comprises a novel organization of means for subjecting an upper, which may terminate short of the heel end of the last, to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at the margin of its toe end and for also pulling it over the last at the opposite sides of its waist portion, the pull at the sides beginning before the pull is applied at its toe end, together with means for fastening it at the sides of the waist portion to an insole on the last while maintaining it under lengthwise strain. The construction shown comprises waist grippers which grip the margin of the upper at the opposite sides of the last where the edge of the last bottom curves inwardly from the ball toward the shank and pull it heightwise of the last with a component of force also in a heelward direction, a toe gripper which grips the margin of the toe end of the upper and is movable to tension the upper lengthwise of the last after the beginning of the upper pulling movement of the waist grippers, and overlaying devices that are movable thereafter to lay the marginal portion of the upper at the opposite sides 15 of the waist portion inwardly over the insole and press it into position to adhere to the insole, first at one side or" the last and then at the other side, while the upper is held under tension by the toe gripper. Preferably and as illustrated, the waist grippers are mounted to move inward- 1y with the overlaying devices to overdraw the upper, and means is provided for operating the waist grippers to release the upper each at a predetermined time in the inward movement of the overlaying device associated therewith.

Various novel features of the invention are also to be recognized in means provided for pressing the upper into conformity to the contour of the last and for laying its margin inwardly over the insole at the opposite sides of the last. In the construction shown, the overlaying devices are connected to the opposite end portions of a flexible elastic apron arranged to extend across the top of the forepart of the last in a position initially out of engagement with the shoe upper, the overlaying devices being movable heightwise of the last to apply the apron to the upper and to tension it over the last and then movable inwardly over the bottom face of the last to cause the apron to conform the upper to the heightwise curvatures of the lateral faces of the last and to lay its margin inwardly over the insole at the opposite sides of the last. As herein shown, the overlaying devices comprise rolls that are A5 shaped to conform substantially to the lengthwise curvature of that portion of the bottom face of the last which slopes upwardly from the ball toward the shank and that act through the apron during their inward movements to press 1 it on the margin of the upper, the opposite end portions of the apron being wound upon the rolls and springs being provided that tend at all times to rotate the rolls in directions to tension the apron between them. In accordance with still another feature of the invention there are provided additional devices arranged to act through the apron to lay and press the marginal portion of the upper upon the insole at the opposite sides of the ball portion of the last.

The above and other features of the invention, including also novel last supporting and gripper adjusting means and various novel details of construction and combinations of parts, will now be more particularly described with reference to the accompanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a View in front elevation of a machine adapted for use in the practice of the method and in which features of the invention are embodied, with portions of the frame broken away;

Fig. 2 is a view in right-hand side elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 1, with parts broken away and parts in section;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged view of the upper portion of the machine in front elevation, showing the parts in the positions they assume at the time when the overlaying devices have completed their movement heightwise of the last to tension the apron over the last;

Fig. 4 is a view in right-hand side elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 3, showing also the means for operating the waist grippers;

Fig. 5 is a view partly in full and partly in section on the line V-V of Fig. 4, with the parts shown in full lines in their initial starting positions and in dotted lines in the positions shown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 with all the parts in the positions shown in Fig. 4;

Figs. 7 and 8 are views similar to Fig. 6 but showing the positions of the parts at different times in the inward movement of one of the overlaying devices;

Fig. 9 is a view in right-hand side elevation of a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1, but with the parts in the positions shown in Fig. 8;

Fig. 1.0 is a section on the line X-X of Fig. 6;

Fig. 11 is a section on the line XI-XI of Fig. 6;

Figs. 12 and 13 are detail sectional views of the toe gripper;

Figs. 14 and 15 are detail sectional views of one of the waist grippers;

Fig. 16 is an end view of one of the overlaying devices;

Fig. 17 is a section on the line XVII--XVII of Fig. 16;

Fig. 18 is a section on an enlarged scale on the line XVIIIXVIII of Fig. 2;

Figs. 19 and 20 are views in side elevation of cam wheels with which the machine is provided and parts associated therewith;

Fig. 21 is a view partly in front elevation and partly in section of the power driving means and the starting and stopping mechanism;

Fig. 22 is a view in side elevation of a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 21;

Fig. 23 is a detail view partly in plan and partly in section of the clutch and associated parts;

Fig. 24 is a detail plan view of a portion of the last clamping means;

Fig. 25 is an enlarged detail view partly in plan and partly in section of a portion of the mecha nism for adjusting the heel end supports and the waist grippers heightwise of the last:

Fig. 26 is a detail plan view of a portion of the mechanism for shifting the forepart support laterally of the machine for right or left lasts;

Fig. 27 is a diagram illustrating the relative timing of the cams which operate different parts of the machine; and

Fig. 28 shows a shoe after it has been operated upon by the machine.

The machine herein shown is provided with means for positioning a last having an insole assembled thereon with the toe end of the last pointing upwardly and the bottom face of its forepart portion located in a substantially vertical plane so that the operator by looking forwardly may conveniently View the top of the forepart of the last and may thus readily position the forepart of a two-part upper properly on the last. This positioning means comprises a forepart support or bracket 35 having formed thereon feet 32 (Figs. 1 and 2) for engaging the insole at the toe end and at the opposite sides of the forepart heelwardly of the toe end, and a toe gage or abutment 34 arranged to engage the toe end of the last. For engaging the bottom face of the insole at the heel end there is provided a substantially U-shaped bar 36 which is adjustable, by means hereinafter described, in directions heightwise of the last to accommodate lasts designed to take care of heels of different heights. Slidably mounted for movements toward and from each other laterally of the last in dovetail-shaped guideways 33 (Fig. 2) in the bar 36 are blocks 50 (Figs. 1, 3 and 24) through which extend short shafts 42 having fast on their inner end portions clamping members 44 arranged to engage the last at the opposite sides of the heel end and to hold the last on the forepart and heel end supports with its toe and in engagement with the toe gage 35 while the operator positions the forepart of a two-part upper on the last. To adapt the machine for operating upon right and left shoes the bracket 30 is fulcrumed upon a shaft 56 and has a depending arm 48 (Fig. 3) connected by a link 55 to an eccentric 52 (Fig. 26) pinned to the end of a shaft 54 which is supported partly by a bearing in the frame 55 of the machine and partly by a bearing formed in a bracket 56 fast to the frame 55 (Figs. 1 and 2). Keyed to the outer end of the shaft 54 is a hand lever 51 for turning the shaft to rotate the eccentric and thus to swing the bracket 35 about the axis of the shaft 46 into different lateral positions for right and left shoes, a spring 58 (Fig. 2) being provided for holding the hand lever with a pin 59 carried by the hand lever extending into any one of a number of recesses in the bracket 56. The shaft 45 is carried by a substantially T- shaped bracket 65 slidably mounted in vertical guideways 52 formed in the frame 55 of the machine (Fig. 18). The bracket 60 has formed thereon rack teeth 66 arranged to be engaged by the teeth of a pinion 68 fast on a shaft I?! mounted in suitable bearings on the frame 55 and having secured to its outer end a pinion 12. Engaging the teeth of the pinion 12 are rack teeth 74 (Fig. 2) formed on a slide 16 mounted in the frame 55 and having its outer end portion threaded to receive a hand wheel 18 which is provided with a circumferential groove 8!! to receive the downwardly extending forked portion of an L.-shaped member 82 fastened to the frame 55 by a screw 84. It will be evident that by rotating the hand wheel 18 endwise movement may be imparted to the slide 1'6 to rotate the pinion 12 and through the shaft 10 and the pinion 58 to raise or lower the bracket 60 and thus to 75 vary the heightwise position of the bracket to to accommodate lasts of different lengths.

The U-shaped bar 36 for supporting the last at the heel end has its rearwardly extending arms tit bored to receive the short shafts 42 which are in axial alinernent and which extend also through the blocks 4E3. For supporting the bar lit there are provided parallel links 38 which are pivotally connected at their rear ends to a bracket til mounted to swing forwardly and rearwardly as hereinafter described and at their forward ends to the short shafts 42, the arms 86 of the bar 36 being forked to straddle the forward ends of the links 36 (Fig. 24). Each block it has formed thereon a trunnion 92 (Fig. 24) mounted to turn in the upper end of a lever 941 pivotally connected to the head 96 (Fig. 2) of a shaft iiii mounted for turning movement in the bracket 5%. Each lever M has a depending bifurcated portion Hill the arms of which are arranged to engage the opposite side faces of a block lllil mounted on a shaft HM supported by the upwardly extending arms Hit of a lever lot which is keyed to a shaft Hi! supported by the bracket 5%. Pivotally connected to the bracket to at H2 (Figs. 2 and 25) is a rod Ht upon which there is threaded a bushing I Hi to the outer end of which there is secured by screws lit a hand wheel iiil. Surrounding the bushing H8 between a shoulder i212 on the hand wheel and the head lid of the bushing is a sleeve 26 provided with recesses to receive the end portions of the shafts its, the construction being such that by rotating the hand wheeh 520 the levers 0% may be swung about their pivotal connections to the bracket tit and impart swinging movement to the levers iii to vary the position of the U-shaped bar 36 heightwise of the last. Extending between the iJ-shaped bar to and the links 88 are springs I29 which tend to hold the bar 36 against swinging movement relatively to the links about the shafts i2.

Fast to the inner end of each shaft 98 is a gear sector It! the teeth of which mesh with rack teeth. lit formed on a rack bar I35 vertically movable in the bracket 56 (Fig. 3). Slidably mounted on the rack bar I35 is a sleeve itl (Fig. 2) having its opposite side faces slotted to receive the arms of a forked lever I39 mounted on a shaft iii supported by bearings in the frame and having a downwardly extending arm Mt carrying a cam roll M5 engaging a path cam i li formed in the side face of a cam wheel hill fast on a shaft iiii' supported by suitable bearings on the frame 55 (Fig. 1). The sleeve till is held in engagement with a collar E53 pinned to the rack bar M5 by a spring itifi sur rounding the rack bar below the sleeve and engaging at its lower end a nut and lock nut I51 threaded on the lower end of the rack bar. The shape of the cam path Ml is such that substantially at the beginning of the cycle of the machine, as more particularly hereinafter explained, the lever lid is swung in a direction to impart downward movement to the rack bar M5 through the spring let. Downward movement of the rack bar i'iii acts through the gear sectors Iii to swing the levers it in directions to move the members it toward each other to clamp the heel-end portion of the last between them. In the return of the parts to starting positions, the sleeve iii-l? acts by engagement with the collar to impart upward movement to the rack bar to cause the gear sectors iii to swing the levers M in directions to move the clamping ice gripper comprises a casing lfti (Figs. 12 and 13) upon the outer end of which are mounted a pair of upper gripping jaws consisting of a jaw ii-lil which is fast on the casing and a jaw i532 pivoted at iiil to the casing for swinging movements toward and from the fixed jaw I30. The jaw E32 has a rearwardly extending arm :35 connected by a link I38 to a bar Mi) slidingly mounted in. the casing 528 and forward movement of which tends to swing the jaw i352 away from the jaw ltd to open the gripper for the reception of the upper materials. For imparting rearward movement to the bar Hill to move the jaw I32 toward the jaw 11% to grip the upper there is mounted on the casing lift a slide Hi2 carrying a T-shaped member Mi having a depending forked portion arranged to straddle a stud if; threaded into the bar Mil. Surrounding the stud Edd between the forked portion of the member i i-- and a shoulder M8 on the stud is a spring toil and threaded on the outer end portion of the head of the stud is a nut and lock nut iii? arranged to engage the end face of the casing i228. Movement of the slide 542 relatively to the casing H28 in a rearward direction acts through the member EM and spring Hit to move the bar hilt rearwardly to close the gripper jaws ltd, if. The casing I28 is slidingly mounted in a boss i5 5 on the bracket and is held against turning movement in the boss by the engagement of the head of screw lot carried by the casing with the boss iii in a lengthwise slot 558 in the boss. To insure that the jaw E32 will be swung toward the upper substantially at the beginning of the rearward movement of the slide there is provided a friction device its (Figs. 12 and 13) for holding the casing 528 against rearward movement with the slide 5 12, this device comprising a brass plug ltil, a spring N52 for holding the plug in engagement with the casing and a screw Hi l threaded into the boss 5 5 for varying the tension of the spring.

For imparting to the slide ii -2 its jaw closing movement there is provided a lever arm [Eiii which is keyed to a shaft Hit supported by the bracket 3 The upper end of the lever arm IE6 is forked to straddle the slide the arms of this forked portion engaging the opposite side faces of the slide in a slot i'ifi formed in the slide. Keyed to the shaft its is a rearwardly extending forked arm i'lf connected by trunnions to a block El i slidingly mounted on a sleeve H6 threaded on a rod Elli which is connected by a pair of links let, lfiil (Figs. 1 and 2) to one arm of a bell-crank lever ifi-i mounted on the shaft it! and having a downwardly extending arm E38 carrying a cam roll Hi2 arranged to engage a cam path formed in the side face of a cam wheel wt fast on the shaft Hit. The shape of the cam 99 i is such that at a predetermined time in the cycle, as more fully hereinafter explained, the bell-crank lever to l is swung in a direction to impart clockwise movement to the lever arm its (Fig. 2) to move the slide M2 rearwardly. As the slide Hi2 moves rearwardly it acts through the member I44 and the spring I50 to move the bar I40 rearwardly to close the toe gripper after which as the slide M2 engages a flange 20!] (Figs. 12 and 13) on the casing the casing I28 tocause the toe gripper to tension the upper over the toe end of the last. As the lever arm 956 is swung in the opposite direction to return the parts to starting positions the friction device I59 acts to hold the casing I28 against forward movement until after the gripper jaw I32 has been swung away from the jaw I36 to open the gripper after which, as the member M4 engages a shoulder 232 on the casing, the toe gripper is moved forwardly to its initial position.

As previously pointed out, the arm H2 is pivotally connected to a block I M (Fig. 2) slidingly mounted on a sleeve Hi5 which is threaded on a rod I78. The block H6 is held against a shoulder 204. on the sleeve I76 by a spring 296 which surrounds the sleeve between the block I14 and an adjustable collar 208 secured to the sleeve by a set screw 2W. Fast to the sleeve H6 is a gear 2I2 arranged to be engaged by rack teeth formed on a bar 2M (Fig. 18) vertically movable on a guide- Way 2I6 formed on a rack bar 258 mounted in a horizontal guideway in the frame 55 and engaging the teeth of a gear 220 keyed to the shaft 10.

It will be evident that as the shaft '50 is rotated to impart heightwise movement to the bracket 38, as hereinbefore described, the sleeve H6 is rotated on the threaded rod M8 by movement of the rack bars 2M, M8 to impart to the block I'M movement in the same direction and to the same extent as the bracket 3!), thus permitting adjustment of the bracket 30 to accommodate shoes of different lengths without imparting any closing movement to the toe gripper. For supporting the rack bar 2M there is provided a bracket 222 which is fast to the bracket 30 and has a tongue and slot connection 224 with the rack bar.

The two grippers for pulling the upper at the opposite sides of the waist portion of the last are substantially alike in construction, each comprising a casing 226 (Figs. 14. and 15) upon the upper end of which are mounted a pair of upper gripping jaws consisting of the jaw 223 which is fast on the casing and a jaw 23E] pivoted at 232 to the casing. For moving the jaw 230 toward the other jaw to grip the upper there is mounted in the casing a jaw closing member or slide 234 carrying a roll 235 arranged to engage the tail portion 238 of the pivoted jaw 23D. The slide 234 is connected to a second slide 240 in the casing 225 by a spring-operated latch 252 which is pivoted at 244 to the slide 240 and is arranged to engage an abutment 245 on the slide 234. The slide 240 has a central recess 248 to receive a spring 256 which bears at its upper end against a pin 252 carried by the casing 226 and at its lower end against a shoulder 254 on the slide 249 (Fig. 5). The slides 240i have formed thereon rack teeth 256 (Figs. 5, 6, '7, and 8) connected by a pinion 258 fast to a shaft 263 rotatably mounted in a spider 262 which is provided with upwardly extending portions 254 slidably mounted in guideways formed in the opposite side faces of the bracket 96 (Fig. 10). Each slide 246 is mounted for lengthwise movement in a guideway formed in a block 256 (Fig. 11) pivotally connected to the shaft 268, the blocks 2% being provided with inwardly extending forked arms. The forked arms 268 of one block are arranged to straddle the pinion 258 and the forked arms 210 I28 rearward movement is imparted to' of the other block are arranged to straddle the arms 258 of the first block. The side grippers extend upwardly through a central recess 212 in the bracket (Fig. 10) and projecting from the end portions of the slides 240 of the side grippers are pins 214 connected by a spring 215 which tends to swing the side grippers away from each other and to hold them with the casings 226 in engagement with locating surfaces 2T8 on the bracket 90. The spider 262 carries rolls 2S0 extending into arcuate slots 282 formed in the arms 284 of a two-armed lever 285 pivotally connected at 236 to the frame 55 (Figs. 2 and 4). Pivotally connected to one of the arms 284 is a rod 283 having slidably mounted thereon a block 2% connected by trunnions 292 to the forked arm of a bell-crank lever 294 fulcrumed on the shaft H ll and having a downwardly extending arm 296 carrying a cam roll 298 arranged to engage a cam path 305) formed in the side face of a cam wheel 302 on the shaft l5l (Fig. 1). Surrounding the rod 283 between the block 298 and an adjustable collar 304 secured to the lower end of the rod is a spring 305 which is compressed as the bellcrank lever 294 is swung in a clockwise direction (Fig. 2) by the cam 300 to impart swinging movement to the arm 284 through the rod 238 in a direction to impart downward movement to the slides 240. As the slides 240 move downwardly the springs 250 act on the pins 252 to uphold the casings 262 with abutments 308 on the casings in engagement with the bottom face 3m of the bracket 99] (Figs. 5 and 6). Since the slides 234 are connected to the slides 2% by the latches 242 they are moved downwardly with the slides 249, 9

thereby causing the rolls 236 to act on the tail portions 238 of the gripper jaws 238 to swing them toward the jaws 228 to grip the upper, after which the side grippers are moved downwardly with the slides 234, 240 to pull the upper. It will be understood that the pull of the side grippers on the upper at the opposite sides of the last is equalized through the pinion 258. For operating each side gripper to release the upper at a predetermined time in the cycle, as more fully hereinafter explained, there is pivotally connected to each slide 234 a member 3I2 which is shaped, as shown particularly in Figs. 14 and 15, to engage the nose portion 3M of the latch 242 and is arranged to be swung from the position shown in Fig, 15 to the position shown in Fig. 14 by means hereinafter described to operate the latch 23?. to disconnect the slides 234 and 2M] and to cause the gripper jaws 228, 233 to release the upper.

In the use of the machine herein shown the up- 3-.

per is released first at the right-hand side of the machine and at a later time in the cycle, for purposes more fully hereinafter explained, at the left-hand side of the machine. As the upper is thus released by the right-hand gripper the spider 262 is moved downwardly by the action of the spring 306 on the rod 288. As the spider 262 is thus moved downwardly the gear 258 is rotated by engagement of its teeth with the rack teeth 255 on the slide 240 of the left-hand gripper, thus imparting downward movement to the slide 240 of the right-hand gripper until a pin 38'! carried by that slide engages the block 256 at the lower end of a lengthwise slot 309 in the block, the construction being such that the pin thus engages the block before the collar 3H5 is moved into engagement with the upper end face of the block 290, the spring 306 thereafter acting on the lefthand gripper to hold the upper at that side of the last under tension. As the slide 240 of the righthand gripper moves downwardly the spring 250 is fully expanded, after which the casing 226 of the right-hand gripper moves downwardly with the slide Mil into the position shown in Fig. 8. As the bell-crank lever 23d and the arm 284 are swung in a counterclockwise direction after the upper has been released by the 1eft-hand gripper and near the end of the cycle of the machine (Fig. 2) by the cam to return the parts to starting positions the casings are moved upwardly by the slides through the springs until the abutinents tilt engage the bottom face 3H) of the bracket 9E3, after which, as the slides Mil continue to move upward relatively to the casings228, the latches 2&2 by engagement with the bottom faces illil of the abutments Mt impart upward movement to the slides until the members Eli. engage shoulders on the gripper jaws 23%, after which the slides Mil are moved relatively to the slides 234 into position to permit the latches ti l-2 to engage the upper faces of the ab-utments Mt, each member 3i? being swung outwardly into a position similar -to that shown in Fig. 15 by the movement of its associated latch M2 into position again to connect the slide 234% with the slide 2%.

The bracket Elli for supporting the side grippers is provided with a pair of upwardly extending arms 322, the upper portion of each arm being formed as a split bearing for a stud 32d mounted to turn in the frame 55 (Fig. l), a screw 326 being provided for moving the two parts of each split bearing toward each other to clamp each stud ti t in the arm The studs 32 1 are mounted to turn about a common axis extending laterally of the shoe and located adjacent to the junction of the forepart and shank portions of the bottom of the last. The arcuate slot 282 in the arm 2% (Fig. 2) is concentric with the axis of the studs 32M and the construction is such that as the U-shaped bar 36 is adjusted to accommodate lasts designed to take care of heels of different heights the bracket 9% is swung through the links til about the axis of the studs 324 to position the waist grippers for upward and downward movements toward and from each last in directions substantially normal to that portion of the bottom face of the last that curves upwardly from the ball toward the shank.

For conforming the upper tightly to the contour of the waist portion of the last and for laying its marginal portion inwardly over the insole in position to adhere thereto the illustrated Ina-- chine is provided with a flexible lasting apron 3253, the opposite end portions of which are wound upon overlaying devices, illustrated as rolls 332, arranged to act through the apron in the overlaying operation to increase the pressure of the apron on the margin of the upper. The lasting apron, consisting preferably of a sheet of rubber,

has its opposite ends extending into grooves 3333 (Figs. 16 and 17) formed in the rolls 3%, gibs 336 being provided for clamping the ends of the apron against the side faces of the grooves. The rolls 332 are keyed to shafts 335 supported by the spaced arms 336 of yokes 3% that are pinned to studs 3% carried by curved arms 3 h? keyed to a shaft Mt mounted to turn in bearings at the upper end of the frame 55 of the machine.

Fast to the shaft M l substantially midway between its ends is an arm 3% (Figs. 2 and 19) and pivotally connected to this arm is a downwardly extending rod 3% on which there is slid ably mounted a sleeve 3% connected by trun .5 nions 352 to the forked end of one arm of a bellcrank lever 354 pivotally mounted on the shaft MI and provided with a downwardly extending arm 356 carrying a cam roll 358 engaging a cam path 3% formed in the side face of a cam wheel 362 mounted on. the shaft [5! (Fig. 19). Surrounding the rod 3M3 between the sleeve 353 and a nut and lock nut 36 i threaded on the end of the rod is a spring 366 and engaging the upper end face of the sleeve 3% is a collar 36%; fast to the rod. Surrounding one end portion of each rod 335 (Fig. 3) is a torsion spring 3H3. The springs 3M tend to rotate the rods 335 in oppo site directions to wind the end portions of the rubber apron 32 tightly about the rolls 332 and to hold the apron stretched between the rolls. The shape of the cam 360 is such that at a predetermined time in the cycle, as hereinafter more particularly explained, the bell-crank lever 354 is swung in a counterclockwise direction, as viewed in Fig. 19, to rock the shaft 344 through the rod M3 in a direction to swing the arms 362 downwardly from the position shown in Fig. 2 to the position shown in Fig. 3 to tension the apron tightly over the waist portion of the last.

As shown particularly in Figs. 1 and 2, there is mounted at the upper end of the frame 55 of the machine a transversely extending shaft 31 2 and pivotally mounted on this shaft is a support 3M having a pair of rearwardly extending arms 3% provided with bearings for trunnions 3'58 (Figs. 2 and 4) formed on a sleeve 380 slidably mounted upon a rod 382 pivotally connected at to a boss formed on the arm 3%. Surrounding the rod 382 between the head 3% of the rod and the sleeve 3% is a spring 338 and threaded on the end portion of the rod 332 and engaging the opposite end face of the sleeve tilt is a nut and lock nut 39%.

Slidably mounted on the support 3H!- is a curved arm 392 (Figs. 2 and 4) carrying at its forward end a shoe and last support arranged to engage the apron substantially opposite the top of the instep of the last and to support the last and shoe against the upwardly directed pressure of the rolls 332 as they move inwardly over the bottom of the shoe to press the marginal portion of the upper through the apron upon the insole. The support comprises a block 3% pivotally connected to the arm 3&2 and provided with two dovetail-shaped tongues 396 (Figs. 7 and 8) arranged to enter similarly shaped grooves in a pad Si t formed of rubber or other suitable material'. Cemented or otherwise secured to the apron 323 are blocks $80 each provided with a curved portion un having formed therein an arcuate slot til through which extends a shouldered stud W5 threaded into the block As the arm S lt is swung in a. counterclockwise direction (Fig. 2) to impart downward swinging movement to the arms 342 it acts also through the spring 3933 to swing the bracket 3% in the same direction about the axis of the shaft 3'52. This causes the arm 392 to slide relatively to the support 3N by reason of the pull of the apron thereon, the arm being held in fixed relation to the apron 323 by the blocks ltit connecting the forward end of the arm and the apron. Preferably and as illustrated, the arm 392 is guided for sliding movement relatively to the support 3% by short inwardly extending pins 408 (Figs. 2 and 4i) carried by the support and engaging the upper and lower faces of the base portion ill] of the arm. As the arm 392 is swung downwardly with the arms 342 the pad 398 acts to press the upper through the apron against the top of the instep of the last and in the continued downward swinging movement of the arms 342, into the positions shown in Fig. 4, the spring 388 is compressed in response to the continued swinging movement of the arm 346. The block 394 and the pad 598 are long enough to accommodate both right and left shoes and preferably the blocks 4630 are fastened to the apron 328 in such spaced relation widthwise of the machine that one or the other of them will engage the apron substantially opposite the top of the instep of the last in operating on right and left shoes.

Preferably also, the blocks 406 are positioned forwardly and rearwardly of the machine in such 15 spaced relation as to permit them to swing relatively to each other without interference between their curved portions 402 as the apron is applied tightly to the upper in the downward Swinging movement of the arms 342.

20 Each arm 3422 (Figs. 1, 2 and 20) is slotted to receive a roll H2 carried by a lever 2M which is pinned to a rockshaft 4H3 mounted to turn in a bearing on the frame '55 and is provided with a downwardly extending arm M8 connected by a 25 short link M2 to one arm of a lever 422 pivotally connected at 42 3' to the frame 55 and having a downwardly extending arm 425 carrying a cam roll 428. By reference to Fig. 1 it will be seen that these connections from the arms 3432 30 to the cam rolls 528 are located at opposite sides of the machine, the cam rolls 228 engaging cam paths 4-30, 232 formed respectively in the cam wheels 996 and 362. The shapes of the cam paths 236, 32 are such that after the arms 322 have been swung downwardly into the positions shown in Fig. 4, the arm 342 at the right-hand side of the machine is moved bodily inward along the shaft 326 to cause the roll 332 acting through the apron 328 to lay the marginal portion of the 40 upper at this side of the shoe inwardly over the insole and to press it into position to adhere to the insole, after which this arm is moved outwardly. Substantially at the beginning of the outward movement of the arm 352 at the right- 45 hand side of the machine, the arm 322 at the left-hand side of the machine is moved bodily inward, its associated roll 332 acting through the apron to lay the marginal portion of the upper at that side of the shoe inwardly over the insole and to press it into position to adhere to the insole, the arm 342 at the left-hand side of the machine being moved thereafter outwardly to the position shown in Fig. 6.

As each arm 342 is moved bodily inward along the shaft 324 in response to the swinging of its associated lever 422, the gripper at that side of the shoe is swung inwardly by the engagement of the portion of the apron would upon the roll 322 with the gripper casing 226 (Fig. 7). As the gripper is thus swung it is moved by the pull of the upper thereon toward the bottom face of the in sole as the marginal portion of the upper is pressed against the insole by the roll 332 acting through the apron 328. As the gripper is moved toward the insole the member 352 is engaged by the inwardly moving head of an adjustable plunger 63 i carried by the yoke 338 and is swung in a direction to operate the latch 2452 to disconnect the slides 22-; and 2 3i! and to cause the 70 gripper jaws 22.3 and 232 to release the upper.

The plunger 134 is held in adjusted position relatively to the yoke 338 by a screw 435 threaded into the yoke and having its head engaging the plunger in a slot formed in the plunger. It will 5 be understood that by adjustment of the screw Gil 435 the position of the plunger G34 relatively to the yoke 338 may be varied to vary the time in the inward movement of the arm 322 when the upper is released by the gripper jaws 228, 230. As previously pointed out, when the slides 234 and 2 5i; are disconnected the spring 306 (Fig. 4) acts on the rod 288 to lower the spider 225, thus causing the gear 258 (Figs. 7 and 8) to be rotated in a direction to move the slide 240 downwardly far enough to permit the spring 25% (Figs. 14 and 15) to expand fully and the casing 225 thereafter to move downwardly with the slide 2 36 until the gripper jaws 228, 236 are moved out or" the path of the inwardly moving plunger 632 (Fig. 8). As each gripper thus moves downwardly it is swung outwardly by the spring 216 until its casing 228 engages the surface 278 on the bracket Qt. It will be understood that after the right-hand gripper has released the upper and has been moved downwardly to the position shown in Fig. 8, the spring 3% acts to exert a downward pull on the left-hand gripper, thus maintaining the upper at that side of the shoe under tension until the left-hand gripper is operated to release the upper in the inward movement of the arm 322 at that side of the ma chine.

In the illustrated machine, when the arms 342 are in the positions shown in Fig. 6, the rolls 332 are positioned heightwise of the shoe in such relation to its bottom face as to exert substantial pressure on the marginal portion of the upper through the apron 328 during the latter portion of their inward movements, the shoe being supported against the upwardly directed pressure of th rolls 332 by the shoe support 3%. As 11- lustrated, the rolls 332 are shaped to conform substantially to the lengthwise curvature of the shank portion of the last bottom so that as they move inwardly over the bottom of a shoe first at one side of the shoe and then at the opposite side they act through the apron on the marginal portion of the upper, rearwardly of the ball line of the shoe, to press it into position to adhere firmly to the insole. In order to insure that the marginal portion of the upper will be laid inwardly over the insole and pressed into position to adhere thereto along the opposite sides of the ball portion of the shoe, the illustrated machine is provided with means for thus acting on the upper through the apron in that location. This means comprises wipers 438 (Figs. 1 and 3), one at each side of the shoe. Each wiper has a dovetail-shaped shank portion 239 (Fig. 3) slidably mounted in a similarly shaped groove formed in an arm l lil fast to the forward end of a shaft 542 rotatably mounted in a bracket i l i fast to a transversely extending shaft 446 mounted to slide in bearings M"! on the frame 55 of the machine. Each bracket l t i has in its opposite side faces grooves arranged to receive loosely the arms of a substantially U-shaped bracket 248 secured to the bracket so by screws 450 (Fig. 4) the construction being such that the heightwise position of the bracket 39 may be varied relatively to the wipers 533 to accommodate lasts of different lengths, the wipers 432 being adjustable, however, with the brackets 36 into different lateral positions to accommodate right and left lasts. Fast to the opposite end portion on the shaft 422 is an arm 452 connected by a link 4154 to an arm 456 pinned to the reduced inner end portion of the rockshaft 4H3. From the above description it will be evident that as each arm 414 (Fig. l) is swung in a direction to move its associated arm 342 inwardly along the shaft the shaft 455 is rocked in a direction to impart downward swinging movement to the arm pinned to the shaft. As each arm 455 is swung downwardly it acts through the arm 452 and the shaft 442 to swing the arm 445 in a direction to move its associated wiper 4-55 inwardly over the bottom of the shoe. It will be evident that the rolls 322 at each side of the shoe are moved inwardly over the bottom of the shoe in advance of the wipers 458 so that as the wipers are thus swung inwardly over the bottom of the shoe they act on the upper through the apron to lay the marginal portion of the upper inwardly over the insole and to press it into position to adhere to the insole at the opposite sides of the ball portion of the shoe. In order to insure adequate pressure of the wipers on the marginal portion of the upper, there is mounted in a recess in each arm 425 a spring 458 (Fig. 9) which tends to urge its associated wiper outwardly relatively to the arm 445, outward movement of the wiper being limited by the engagement of the head of screw it!) threaded into the shank portion of the wiper with the inner end face 452 of the arm t lt.

The machine herein shown is operated by a belt (not shown) engaging a pulley 454 (Figs. 1 and 21) rotatably mounted on a shaft 465 supported at one end by a bearing 468 on the frame 55 and at the other end by a bracket 410 extending upwardly from the frame 55. Between the pulley 454 and the bearing 468 there is mounted on the shaft 455 a. sleeve 412 and formed integral with the sleeve is a pinion 414 the teeth of which engage the teeth of a gear 415 keyed to the shaft I51. The sleeve 412 is bored to receive a pin 415 (Figs. 21 and 23) which is urged by a spring 455 in a direction to engage a pin 552 fast in the hub portion of the pulley 464 but which is. normally held retracted against the tension of the spring 485 by the engagement of a wedge 454 with a similarly shaped slot 435 in the pin 412. The wedge 484 is carried by one arm 485 of a bell-prank lever 490 which is mounted to rock on a shaft 492 supported in a bearing 454 on the frame 55 and is held against movement lengthwise of the shaft by a finished surface 495 on the bearing 494 and a collar 498 fast to the outer end of the shaft. The bellcrank lever 49!) has a rearwardly extending arm 555 to which there is pivotally connected a rod 552 (Fig. 22) that extends downwardly through an enlarged opening in a block 504 fast to an arm 5% pivotally connected at 508 to the frame 55 and carrying at its inner end a roll 5H) arranged to engage a cam path 5I2 formed in the hub portion of the gear 416. Threaded on the lower end of the rod 502 is a V-shaped block ti l which is held in engagement with a notch on the bottom face of the block 504 by a. spring 5115 surrounding the rod 502 between the upper face of the block 554 and an adjustable collar 5ft secured to the rod by a screw 519. The rearwardly extending arm 550 of the bell-crank lever 455 has a tail portion 520 arranged to be engaged by a notched plate 522 pivotally connected to a block 524 to which there is pivotally connected a link 525 which extends downwardly through an enlarged opening in the arm 555 and is pivotally connected at its lower end to a rearwardly extending arm 528 fast to a shaft 530 journaled in the frame 55 and having secured to it a second arm 532 connected by a short link 554 to a treadle 536 pivotally connected at 538 to the frame 55. A spring 540 seated in a recess in the block 524 and engaging a lateral projection 542 on the plate 522 tends normally to hold the plate with its notched portion in engagement with thetail portion 525 of the arm 505, a set screw 544 being provided for limiting swinging movement of the plate by the spring when the plate and arm are disconnected. Connected at one end to a pin 555 projecting from the frame 55 and at the other end to a pin 548 in the arm 528 is a spring 555 which tends to swing the arm 528 in a direction to hold the treadle 555 in engagement with an adjustable stop, illustrated as a screw 552 carried by a substantially U-shaped bracket 554 that straddles the treadle and is secured to the frame 55 (Fig. 22). It will be understood that by adjusting the screw 552 the heightwise position of the notched plate 522 may be varied.

When the operator depresses the starting treadle 535 the bell-crank lever 455 is swung against the resistance of the spring 515 in a direction to operate the wedge 484 to release the pin 413 to the action of its spring 480 which moves the pin outwardly into position to be engaged by the pin 482 in the continuously driven pulley 454 to start the operation of the machine. Release of the treadle by the operator permits the spring 555 to return the notched plate 522 to its initial position (Fig. 22) with the treadle 535 in engagement with the adjustable stop 552, and the spring 5115 through the link 502 to swing the bell-crank lever 495 in a direction to position the wedge 484 in engagement with the sleeve 412 in a circumferential groove 556 formed in the sleeve (Fig. 21). As thus positioned, the wedge 424 engages the pin 418 in the wedgeshaped groove formed in the pin and cams it out of engagement with the pin 582 at the end of one complete rotation of the pinion 414 to stop the operation of the machine. One complete rotation of the pinion 414 causes the gear 415 and the shaft 15! to be turned through 90 of their cycle. As the machine is again started by depression of the treadle 535, the cam 512 acts to swing the arm 556 downwardly and through the rod 552 to impart to the bell-crank lever 455 a further swinging movement in a direction to raise the wedge 454 and to hold the wedge thus raised during two complete rotations of the pinion 414, after which, during the next rotation of the pinion 414, the arm 556 and the bell-crank lever 455 are returned to their initial positions (Fig. 22) with the wedge in position again to engage the pin 412 and to withdraw it from engagement with the pin 452 to stop the operation of the machine at the end of that rotation of the pinion.

In the operation of the machine the operator, after adjusting the position of the U-shaped bar 55 heightwise of the last and the inclination of the waist grippers for the style of shoe to be operated upon and with the bracket in proper lateral position either for a right or a left shoe, places a last having an insole assembled thereon in engagement with the feet 32 and the heel end support 35 with the toe end of the last in engagement with the abutment 34 and depresses the starting treadle 525 to start the operation of the machine, whereupon the clamping members 44 are moved inwardly toclamp the heel end of the last and to hold it in the position in which it has been presented by the operator. It is at this time in the cycle that the machine is brought to a stop to permit the operator to place the forepart of a two-part upper on the last and to position it in proper relation to the forepart and waist portions of the last with the margin of the upper introduced between the jaws I30, it?! of the toe grippers and the jaws 228, 230 of the side grippers. It will be understood that cement will have been previously applied to the marginal portion of the upper, which in the type of shoe herein shown terminates short of the heel end of the last, along the opposite sides of the waist and ball portions, and if desired also, to the margins of the insole along the opposite sides of its ball and shank portions before the last is presented to the machine and the forepart of the upper is mounted on the last as above described.

The relative timing of the cams for operating the different instrumentalities is illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 27, the numeral I referring to the cam for operating the last clamping members 44, the numerals 2 and 3 referring respectively to the cams for operating the waist and toe grippers, the numeral 4 referring to the cam for imparting to the arms 3422 their downward swinging movement to apply the apron tightly to the upper about the waist portion of the last, the numerals 5 and t referring respectively to the cams for imparting to the arms 342 alter-- nately their movements laterally of the machine, and the numeral 7 referring to the cam for operating the arm 50% to control the position of the wedge 484.

With the forepart of the shoe upper thus positioned on the last the operator depresses the starting treadle 536 to start the machine again, whereupon the waist grippers are operated to grip the upper simultaneously at the opposite sides of its waist portion and to pull it heightwise of the last to tension the upper tightly over the last, and the toe gripper is operated to grip and pull the upper lengthwise of the last after the beginning of the upper pulling movements of the waist grippers. Substantially at the time when the waist grippers complete their upper pulling movement the arms and the overlaying devices 332 are swung downwardly to bring the apron 328 into engagement with the upper and to pull the apron heightwise of the last in a direction inclined rearwardly toward its heel end, the arm 392 being moved relatively to the support 3'74 with the apron by reason of its connection with the apron through the blocks 400. As the arm 392 is thus moved the shoe support 394 is moved toward the last and shoe by the swinging of the support 3'14 about its pivot 312 into position to press the upper through the apron against the top face of the last.

At the end of the downward swinging movement of the arms 342, the arm 342 at the righthand side of the machine is moved bodily inward along the shaft 34:?- to carry the roll 332 at that side of the machine inwardly over the shoe bottom. As the roll 332 moves inwardly over the bottom of the shoe the apron 326 acts to wrap the upper about the curved portion of the last adjacent to its bottom face and to lay its marginal portion inwardly over the insole, the roll 33?! acting through the apron to press the marginal portion of the upper firmly into position to adhere to the insole. It will be understood that as the arm 342 is moved bodily inward the gripper at that side of the machine is moved inwardly with the arm to overdraw the upper, and substantially at that time when the roll 332 begins to press the marginal portion of the upper through the apron into position to adhere to the insole the gripper is tripped to release the upper as hereinbefore described. As the arm 342 is moved inwardly along the shaft 344 the wiper 438 at that side of the shoe is swung downwardly and inwardly over the bottom of the shoe to lay the marginal portion of the upper along the ball portion of the shoe through the apron inwardly over the insole and to press it into position to adhere to the insole. After the roll 332 and the wiper 438 have completed their inward movements they are held in their innermost positions while maintaining their pressure on the overlasted margin of the upper until the cement has set sufficiently to hold the upper in lasted position, after which the arm 342 is moved outwardly, and the wiper 438 is returned to its initial starting position. Substantially at the beginning of the outward movement of the arm 342 at the right-hand side of the machine the arm 342 at the left-hand side of the machine is moved bodily inward along the shaft 344, and as this arm moves inwardly the operations above described are performed at the left-hand side of the shoe to draw the upper inwardly over the insole and to lay and press its marginal portion into position to adhere to the insole along the waist and ball portions of the shoe. It will be understood that during the inward movement of the arm 342 at the left-hand side of the machine, the arm 342 at the right-hand side of the machine is held in its lowermost position so that the tension of the apron on the upper is not relaXed as the marginal portion of the upper at the left-hand side of the shoe is laid inwardly over the insole and pressed into position to adhere thereto. After the cement has set sulficiently to hold the upper in lasted position the arm 342 at the left-hand side of the machine is moved outwardly and the wiper 438 at that side of the machine is swung upwardly to its initial position. Thereafter the toe gripper is operated to release the upper and all parts are returned to their initial starting positions, the last and shoe being released by outward movement of the clamping members 34, whereupon the machine is again stopped by the action of the wedge 484 on the pin 478. The shoe may then be operated upon by a bed lasting machine provided with Wipers that extend rearwardly as far as the ball line to complete the lasting of the forepart, after which the heel end of the two-part upper may be assembled on the last and its marginal portion fastened to the insole around the heel end. Thereafter an outsole may be applied to the shoe and the shoe finished in the usual manner.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last preparatory to lasting its toe end, which consists in pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of its Waist portion and after beginning thus to pull the upper subjecting it also to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, then fastening the margin of the upper at the sides of the waist portion of the last to an insole on the last while maintaining the upper under lengthwise strain by the pull at its toe end, and thereafter releasing the margin of the toe end of the upper in an unfastened condition.

2. That improvement in methods of shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last preparatory to lasting its toe end, which consists in pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of its waist portion and after drawing it tightly about the last by such a pull subjecting it also to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at the margin of its toe end, then laying the margin of the upper at the sides of the waist portion of the last inwardly over an insole on the last and pressing it into position to adhere to the insole while maintaining the upper under lengthwise strain by the pull at its toe end, and thereafter releasing the margin of the toe end of the upper in an unfastened condition.

3. That improvement in methods of shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last preparatory to lasting its toe end, which consists in subjecting such an upper on a last to heightwise strain by pulling it at the opposite sides of the last in a direction substantially normal to that portion of the bottom face of the last that curves heightwise oi the last from the ball toward the shank, tensioning the upper lengthwise of the last by a pull applied at its toe end after beginning the pull at the sides, then while maintaining the upper under lengthwise strain by the pull applied to its toe end fastening the margin of the upper at the sides of the waist portion of the last to an insole on the last, and thereafter releasing the margin of the toe end of the upper in an unfastened condition.

4. That improvement in methods of shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last preparatory to lasting its toe end, which consists in pulling such an upper over a last at the sides of its waist portion and after beginning thus to pull the upper subjecting it also to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at the margin of its toe end, then conforming the upper tightly to the contour of the waist portion of the last and laying its marginal portion heelwardly of the junction of the forepart and shank portion of the last inwardly over an insole on the last and pressing it into position to adhere to the insole first at one side of the last and then at the opposite side of the last while maintaining the upper under lengthwise strain by the pull at its toe end, and thereafter releasing the margin of the toe end of the upper in an unfastened condition.

5. That improvement in methods of shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last preparatory to lasting its toe end, which consists in subjecting an upper on a last to heightwise strain by pulling it at the opposite sides of the last in a direction substantially normal to that portion of the bottom face of the last that curves heightwise of the last from the ball toward the shank, tensioning the upper lengthwise of the last by a pull applied at the margin of its toe end after drawing it tightly about the last by the pull at the sides, then while maintaining the upper under lengthwise strain by the pull applied at its toe end laying its margin at the opposite sides of the ball portion and rearwardly toward the shank inwardly over an insole on the last and pressing it into position to adhere to the insole, and thereafter releasing the margin of the toe end of the upper in an unfastened condition.

6. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, means for subjecting such an upper on a last to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, and means for pulling the upper over the last at the opposite sides of the waist portion of the last before the beginning of the pull at its too end and for fastening it at the sides of the waist portion to an insole on the last after the completion of the pull at its toe end and while still maintaining the upper under said lengthwise strain.

r. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, means lor pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sidesoi' the waist portion of the last, means for subjecting the upper to lengthwise strain by a pull applied to its toe end, and means for laying the margin of the upper at the sides of the waist portion oi the last inwardly over an insole on the last and for pressing it into position to adhere to the insole while still maintaining the upper under lengthwise strain by the pull applied at its toe end.

8. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end or the last, Waist grippers arranged to grip the margin or such an upper at the sides of the wa st portion of the last and to pull the upper heightwise of the last, a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin oi the toe end or the upper and to subject the upper to lengthwise strain after the beginning DI the upper pulling movement of said waist grippers, and overlaying devices arranged to lay the marginal portion oi the upper at the sides or the waist portion inwardly over an. insole on the last while the upper is held under tensionby said toe gripper.

9. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, grippers for gripping and pulling such an upper over a last at the sides of the waist portion of the last, a gripper for gripping the margin of the upper at the toe end movable to tension the upper lengthwise of the last after the beginning of the upper pulling movement of said waist grippers, and means for laying the marginal portion of the upper at the opposite sides of the last rearwardly or the junction of the forepart and shank portions of the last inwardly over an insole on the last and I01 pressing it 11100 position to adhere to the insole while the upper is still held under tension by said toe gripper.

10. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, grippers for gripping and pulling such an upper over a last at the sides of the waist portion of the last, a gripper for gripping the mar gm oi the upper at the toe enu inovaoie to tension the upper lengthwise oi the last after the beginning of the upper pulling operation of said waist grippers, and overlaying devices movable inwardly over the bottom of the last first at one side of the last and then at the opposite side of the last to lay the marginal portion of the upper inwardly over an insole on the last and to press it into position to adhere to the insole while the upper is still held under tension by "said toe gripper.

11. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, grippers arranged respectively to pull such an upper over a last at its opposite sides in directions substantially normal to that portion of its bottom face that curves heightwise of the last from the ball toward the shank, devices curved similarly to that portion of the bottom face of the last for laying the marginal portion of the upper inwardly over an insole onthe last and pressing it into position to adhere to the insole, and means for subjecting the upper to lengthwise strain after the beginning of the upper pulling operation of said side grippers and for holding the upper thus tensioned during the overlaying movements of said devices.

12. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, grippers for gripping and pulling such an upper over a last at the sides of the waist portion of the last, a gripper for gripping the margin of the upper at the toe end movable to tension the upper lengthwise of the last after the beginning of the upper pulling operation of said waist grippers, overlaying devices at the opposite sides of the waist portion of the last movable inwardly over the bottom of the last to lay the marginal portion of the upper over an insole on the last and to press it into position to adhere to the insole, and means for operating said waist grippers to release the upper in response to the inward movements of said overlaying devices.

13. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, grippers for gripping and pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of the waist portion of the last, a gripper for gripping the margin of the upper at the toe end movable to tension the upper lengthwise of the last after the beginning of the upper pulling operation of said waist grippers, overlaying devices at the opposite sides of the waist portion of the last movable inwardly over the bottom of the last to lay the marginal portion of the upper over an insole on the last in position to adhere to the insole, said waist grippers being mounted to move inwardly with said overlaying devices to overdraw the upper, and means for operating each of said waist grippers to release the upper at a predetermined time in the inward movement of its associated overlaying device.

14. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, grippers for gripping and pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of its waist portion and at the toe end, overlaying devices for laying the marginal portion of the upper at the opposite sides of the waist portion inwardly over an insole on the last and for pressing itinto position to adhere to the insole, and

power-operated means for operating the waist grippers to pull the upper in advance of the toe gripper and for operating the toe gripper to release the upper after the overlaying devices have completed their inward movements.

15. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, means for pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of its waist portion, means for subjecting the upper to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, and means for conforming the upper to the contour of the waist portion of the last and for laying its marginal portion inwardly over an insole on the lastin position to adhere to the insole while the upper last, means for pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of the waist portion, means for subjecting the upper to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, and a flexible apron for conforming the upper to the contour of the waist portion of the last and for laying its marginal portion inwardly over an insole on the last in position to be secured to the insole by an adhesive while the upper is maintained under lengthwise strain by the pull applied at its toe end.

17. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, means for pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of the waist portion of the last, means for subjecting the upper to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, a flexible apron, and means for pulling the apron heightwise of the last and inwardly over an insole on the last to cause the apron to conform the upper to the heightwise curvatures of the lateral faces of the waist portion of the last and to lay the marginal portions of the upper at the opposite sides of the waist portion inwardly over the insole in position to adhere thereto while the upper is held under lengthwise strain by the pull applied at its toe end.

18. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, means for pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of the waist portion of the last, means for subjecting the upper to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, and means for conforming the upper to the contour of the waist portion of the last and for laying its marginal portion inwardly over an insole on the last in position to adhere to the insole while the upper is held under tension by the pull applied at its toe end, said last-named means comprising a flexible apron and devices connected to the opposite end portions of said apron and movable to pull the apron heightwise of the last and inwardly over its bottom face, said devices being arranged to act through the apron to increase its pressure on the margin of the upper.

19. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, means for pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of its waist portion, means for subjecting the upper to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, and means for conforming the upper to the contour of the waist portion of the last and for laying its marginal portion inwardly over an insole on the last in position to adhere thereto while the upper is held under tension by the pull applied at its toe end, said last-named means comprising a flexible apron, a pair of rolls connected respectively to the opposite end portions of said apron one at each side of the last, and means for moving the rolls heightwise of the last to draw the apron tightly about the waist portion of the last and for then moving the rolls inwardly over the bottom of the last to cause the apron to lay the marginal portion of the upper upon the insole, said rolls being arranged to act through said apron during their inward movements to increase the pressure of the apron on the margin of the upper.

20. In a machine for shaping over a last a shoe upper terminating short of the heel end of the last, grippers for pulling such an upper over a last at the opposite sides of its waist portion, means for subjecting the upper to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, and means for conforming the upper to the contour of the waist portion of the last and for laying its marginal portion inwardly over an insole on the last while the upper is held under tension by the pull 

